Polyurethane Concrete Lifting
Your concrete sank. It does not have to be replaced.
We lift driveways, garage floors, patios, pool decks, and sidewalks back to level through holes the size of a dime. Most jobs take about an hour.
Where Concrete Sinks
Find your problem on this house.
Every service we offer is somewhere on this property. Pick the one that looks like yours and watch it come back to grade.
Hover any part of the property to level it. Tap any part of the property to level it, then tap again to read more.
What We Lift
If it sank, it is on the list.
Settled soil does not care what is sitting on top of it. Six services, one method.
Driveway Leveling
Close the trip edge at your garage door and stop a settling slab from cracking further.
Learn more →Garage Floor Leveling
Lift and stabilize a sinking garage slab without moving a thing off your shelves.
Learn more →House Slab Leveling
Settled slab-on-grade foundations lifted back to level, room by room, without demolition.
Learn more →Patio Leveling
Fix the backward slope that has been draining rainwater toward your foundation.
Learn more →Pool Deck Leveling
Waterproof foam that will not wash out the next time the deck gets soaked.
Learn more →Sidewalk Leveling
Raised edges are a trip hazard and a liability. Most walkways are level again in one visit.
Learn more →How It Works
We do not replace concrete. We rescue it.
Structural polyurethane foam expands under the slab, fills the voids, and lifts it back to grade. No demolition, no concrete trucks, no week of waiting.
Drill
A hole about the size of a dime, roughly 5/8 of an inch. Patched when we finish and hard to find afterward.
Inject
Foam expands beneath the slab, filling voids and compacting the loose soil that let it drop in the first place.
Level
The slab rises in controlled stages while we watch a laser level, often to within an eighth of an inch.
Your Three Options
Cheapest is not the same as least expensive.
Every price below is a share of what it costs to tear out and repour the same concrete. Middle option is ours, and here is the honest case for it.
Least expensive
Mudjacking
~40%
of the cost to replace the concrete
- Cheapest option up front
- Mixture is dealer's choice: dirt and concrete at whatever ratio that crew uses
- Two inch holes or larger, permanently visible
- 24 to 72 hours before you can use it
- Water permeable, so it can wash out and settle again
- Cannot lift a house slab
The cheapest number on this page, and the one most likely to be spent twice.
Best value
ReLevel Poly Lifting
70-85%
of the cost to replace the concrete
- Exact 1:1 ratio of resin and iso, measured by the rig on every single job
- Holes about 5/8 of an inch, roughly the size of a dime
- Most jobs take about an hour, and the concrete is usable as soon as we finish
- Closed cell and waterproof, so it will not wash out
- Fills the voids and compacts the soil that caused the settling
- Can lift a house slab, which neither other option can do
Honest downside: your concrete is level again, not new. Existing stains and cracks are still yours.
Most expensive
Tear Out & Repour
100%
the baseline every other price is measured against
- Genuinely looks brand new, which is the one thing lifting cannot do
- Demolition, hauling, forms, and new concrete
- Days of work and roughly a week of curing before full use
- Does nothing to the soil that caused the problem
- New slab on the same unstable ground can sink and crack again
- Not a realistic option for a settled house slab
Worth it when the concrete itself has failed. Rarely worth it when the concrete is fine and the dirt moved.
Poly vs Mud
One is measured. One is mixed by eye.
The single biggest difference between the two injection methods is whether anybody knows what is actually going under your slab.
| Factor | ReLevel Poly Foam | Mudjacking |
|---|---|---|
| Material mixture | Exact 1:1 resin to iso, metered by the rig on every job | Dirt and concrete, mixed at whatever ratio that crew happens to use |
| Injection hole | Dime sized, about 5/8" | Two inches or more |
| Time on site | About an hour for a typical job | Longer, plus 24 to 72 hours before use |
| Water resistance | Closed cell, will not wash out | Water permeable, can wash out |
| House slabs | Yes | No |
| Lift precision | Roughly 1/8 inch increments | Blunter, easier to over-lift |
Why This Matters
You cannot rent your way into this trade.
Anyone can buy bags of concrete and call themselves a repour contractor. Mudjacking equipment can be rented by the day. A polyurethane rig cannot.
Roughly $100,000 to start
The truck, the pump, the heated hose, the reactor, and the initial material. That is the price of admission before a single job gets quoted.
No rental counter carries it
Poly rigs are not rental equipment. Whoever shows up with one has committed real capital to doing this specific work.
The material is unforgiving
Resin and iso have to run at an exact 1:1 ratio and at temperature. The rig meters it. Guesswork produces foam that does not hold.
We are not saying that to knock anyone. We are saying it because when you get three quotes and one is dramatically cheaper, it is worth knowing what is behind each number.
Where We Work
Upstate SC, Western NC, and northeast Georgia.
From Asheville down to Columbia and west into Georgia. Free estimates anywhere inside the map. Not sure if you are in range? Call and ask.
Common Questions
What homeowners ask us first.
How much does concrete leveling cost?
Most residential concrete leveling jobs land between $900 and $2,900, depending on how much slab has to be lifted and how far it has settled. A small sidewalk section or a single sunken driveway panel sits at the low end. A full garage floor or a large pool deck sits at the high end. It is almost always a fraction of tear-out and replacement, which typically runs three to five times more for the same area. We quote the exact number on site for free before any work starts.
Is concrete leveling cheaper than replacing the concrete?
Yes, substantially. Replacement means demolition, hauling away the old slab, new forms, new concrete, and a week of curing before you can use it. Leveling reuses the slab you already have, finishes in a few hours, and you can drive on it the same day. Replacement only makes sense when the concrete itself has failed structurally rather than simply settled.
How long does polyurethane concrete lifting last?
The foam itself does not break down, wash out, or lose volume. It is a closed-cell structural polyurethane that stays inert in the ground indefinitely. What matters is that we fill the voids and compact the loose soil that caused the settlement in the first place, which is why properly injected slabs generally stay put for decades. Ask about the written warranty when we quote your job.
Is polyjacking better than mudjacking?
For nearly every residential job, yes, and the mixture is the reason. Polyurethane is two liquids, resin and iso, that have to meet at an exact 1:1 ratio, and the rig meters that automatically on every injection. Mudjacking slurry is dirt and concrete mixed at whatever ratio that crew happens to use, so two mudjacking contractors can pump genuinely different materials under two identical driveways. Foam also uses 5/8 inch holes instead of two-inch holes, is ready to use immediately instead of in days, and is closed-cell and waterproof so it will not wash out. Mudjacking also cannot lift a house slab.
How long does the job take and when can I use it?
A typical residential job is about an hour on site, and the concrete is ready to use as soon as we pack up. The foam reaches most of its final strength within roughly fifteen minutes of injection, which is why you can park on a driveway the same visit. Mudjacking usually needs 24 to 72 hours before it will carry weight, and a full replacement needs about a week of curing.
Free Estimates
Find out what it costs. Free, no pressure.
We measure the settlement, mark the lift plan, and give you the number on the spot. If your concrete does not need lifting, we will tell you that instead.